Days 0 - 3 Wednesday, June 21 Saturday, June 24 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - What We Had: Sunny to Rainy Upper 50's to Low 60's Averages: High: 64º Low:48º Current Weather Weather Forecast - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ================= - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Click on a city name above or use the drop down list below to jump to another city. Jump to Another LocationKeswickYorkConwyStow-On-The-WoldBathLondon •  Installation of the Governor of Edinburgh Castle •  A Short List •  Deacon Brodie •  Greyfrairs Bobby •  Sir Walter Scott Monument •  The Real Mary King`s Close •  National Museum of Scotland •  St Giles` Cathedral •  Back side of High Street (The Royal Mile) from Princes Park •  Installation of the Governor of Edinburgh Castle •  Greyfriars Bobby •  Edinburgh Castle •  Street Life •  The Filling Station •  Deacon Brody Restaurant •  Lucky Star Restaurant •  Howies Restaurant •  Novotel Hotel •  The Jolly Judge •  Royal Mile Tavern •  Dunedin Guest House •  Novotel Hotel Bus Transfer Ticket (Click Picture for More Info) Events Catalog (Click Picture for More Info) Eating Out Guide (Click Picture for More Info) Edinburgh Castle Tour Guide (Click Picture for More Info) Historic Scotland Brochure (Click Picture for More Info) What's New, National Museum of Scotland (Click Picture for More Info) Map Your Visit National Museum of Scotland (Click Picture for More Info) Palace of Holyroodhouse Brochure (Click Picture for More Info) The Queen's residence when in Edinburgh Welcome to Edinburgh...Free Guide and Maps (Click Picture for More Info) Edinburgh Castle Admission Ticket (Click Picture for More Info) City Map (Click Picture for More Info) Explore Historic Scotland Brochure (Click Picture for More Info) Novotel Room Key Holder

Guest House Sign Dunedin Guest House, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) After many months of planning and anticipation our trip finally started in Edinburgh. We arrived a few days early to rid ourselves of the jet lag. Our first two nights were spent at the Dunedin Guest House (bed & breakfast). The price was significantly lower than the hotels, good location, "homey", and a wonderful welcome to Scottish culture. Also, the couple who owned the B&B were very friendly and helpful. Their assistance was first-rate and the breakfast they served magnificent. We traveled from the airport on a shuttle bus to the center of Edinburgh and then we took a taxi to the B&B. The shuttle bus cost ₤6 (₤3 per person) and the taxi was another ₤4.50. Floral Clock Princes Street Garden (Click to Enlarge) Downtown Edinburgh was not that large. The bus system was easy to understand, efficient, and responsibly priced ( ₤1 per trip in one direction, including transfers). After breakfast we took the bus to the center of Edinburgh where we explored Princes Street and The Royal Mile (mostly High Street). Make sure you visit the 'closes'. They are the side streets or "alleys" from the Royal Mile to Princes Garden. These side streets are not very wide so you'll think of them as passage ways! to check out the info (below) from our visit to Mary King's close. The picture on the right is that of the Anchor Close. Anchor Close Royal Mile, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) The second day Jack and Jan, we met them on a previous Rick Steves tour, joined us. We returned to the Royal Mile for a visit to St. Giles Cathedral and the Museum of Scotland . After lunch at the Deacon Brody , we walked to Edinburgh castle. Wrong time of the year to see the Tatto Festival, however, we were lucky to be there for the installation of the new Governor of Edinburgh Castle . How did we find out about it? Well, we met another traveler (not on our tour) who was reviewing Edinburgh in Rick`s Great Britain tour book. Having Rick in common, we struck up a conversation. Turned out that her tour guide had told her about the installation of the Governor that evening. What a break! The third day the four of us took a taxi to the Novotel Hotel, the first hotel on the tour. Nice place, although it lacked the atmosphere of the Guest House, (details below) with a great location. While the weather wasn't very nice, we were close to the castle, the Museum of Scotland and the Royal Mile. After we dropped our bags Linda and I went back to the Museum of Scotland for a closer look at the displays and to visit the terrace on the top floor. Both were definitely worth it.

Novotel Lobby Our Group`s First Meeting, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) At 5:00 pm we met up with our tour group in the lobby of the hotel. It was obvious that we lucked out a second time with a great group of experienced Rick Steves' fellow travelers. Everyone was excited to have the tour start (although some were still jet lagged) and find out about everyone else. Our tour guide, Gillian Chadwick, joined us and we were off to our first dinner (see Hardies below). After ordering dinner we each gave an introduction about ourselves and shared our travel experiences with the others at our table. Our final day in Edinburgh started with a walking tour of the town center lead by our Scottish tour guide for the day, Devina. She lead us from our hotel up to the castle. With a great deal of pride she told us about sites along the way as well as the accomplishments of a number of famous Scots. One of the most famous, of course, is Dolly the first cloned sheep. At this point we didn't appreciate the importance of this discovery. As we traveled through the country side during the next two weeks it became obvious that sheep are VERY important is Britain. Novotel Lobby Our Group`s First Meeting, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) Novotel Lobby Our Group`s First Meeting, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) We past by a number of important sites: George Heriot's School The location where Tony Blair was born (no longer there) Greyfriar Bobby's Statue, grave and the grave of his owner Museum of Scotland Elephant House Cafe (where Harry Potter was written) (link above) St. Giles` Cathedral Some closes off of High Street (small aisle ways that ran between buildings) Deacon Brodie's Tavern and the story of Jekyll and Hyde Memorial to the woman who were accused of witchcraft and burned there The Castle Esplanade and finally the Edinburgh Castle           Installation of the Governor of Edinburgh Castle The New Governor enters Installation of Governor, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) I'm not sure that everyone would consider this a Wow Moment but we did. We had the luck of being in Edinburgh on the single day in years that the new Governor of the Castle was installed. Flashy...no. Breath taking...no. Historic...You Bet, Wow! A Short List There are a number of "things'' we learned about Edinburgh and Scotland: 1. The Scots do not like the English. On a one-to-one basis they get along fine. However, if the Scots had a choice, I'm pretty sure they would like to be their own country. 2. It rains A LOT in Scotland. Okay, you say we should already have known that. Nevertheless even when you are told that you will probably have rain you still hold out the hope that it will be sunny. DON`T. 3. The Scots are VERY friendly. Clearly David and Irene at the Dunedin House were friendly and very helpful. Also the average person on the street, on a bus or elsewhere was very warm and helpful. 4. It rains A LOT in Scotland. 5. There is an ATM/cash machine in front of the Princes Mall (on Princes Street) that didn't charge for a withdrawal. 6. Haggis is NOT only for the tourist (even though I'm sure they eat the majority of it). 7. It rains A LOT in Scotland. 8. What does a TRUE Scot wear under his kilt? NOTHING! No...we didn't look. 9. A handmade, "kilt" can cost $1,000. Deacon Brodie The Story of Deacon Brodie Deacon Brodie Restaurant, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) The story of Deacon Brodie was the basis for Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde written by Robert Louis Stevenson. Deacon Brodie (1741-88) was a respected cabinet-maker and a member of the Town Council, and Deacon (head) of the Incorporation of Wrights and Masons. However, Brodie lived a double life, developing an expensive lifestyle including mistresses and gambling that he could only support through a secret life of crime. As a respected craftsman, part of Brodie's day job involved manufacturing and repairing locks. It became his practice to take copies of all these keys so that he could return later that night with accomplices. Brodie's downfall followed an armed raid on His Majesty's Excise Office on Edinburgh's Cannongate. One of the gang was caught red handed and although Brodie escaped to the Netherlands he was arrested in Amsterdam and returned to Scotland for trial. Brodie was found guilty after a search of his home revealed his stock of duplicate keys and he was sentenced to hang at Edinburgh's Tollbooth on 1 October 1788. Brodie bribed the hangman to ignore a steel collar he was wearing, designed to keep him alive long enough to be revived after the hanging. It failed, however, and Brodie's double life was over. Across the Street Deacon Brodie Restaurant, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) Greyfrairs Bobby Bobby Greyfriars Bobby Bar, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) We ran across a book in the store of the Museum of Scotland concerning Disney's movie about Greyfrairs Bobby. It said that the author had never been to Edinburgh and that most of what she wrote she simply made up. It's true that Bobby existed and his owner was a policeman. The rest...mostly fiction.     Sir Walter Scott Monument Figures on Sir Walter Scott Monument (Click to Enlarge) The Scott Monument is 200 ft. 6ins. high and 55ft. square at the base; the highest gallery is reached by climbing a total of 287 steps. The monument has 64 niches (right) each containing a statuette representing a character from the works of Sir Walter Scott. Sir Walter Scott Monument (Click Picture to Enlarge) Sir Walter Scott Monument Princes Street Edinburgh, Scotland

The Real Mary King`s Close This is not a cheap attraction (₤16.50 or $33). The tour took about an hour and was everything we expected. You can clearly see and feel what life was like on the Close hundreds of years ago. It's an amazing twist of fate that the need for progress (in the form of a new Royal Exchange, now the City Chambers), froze the structures underneath in place and time. Take the time to go through the tour. It's worth the time and the price of admission. Mary King`s Close Brochure Royal Mile, Edinburgh (Click Picture to Enlarge) The Real Mary King`s Close 2 Warriston`s Close High Street Edinburgh, EH1 1PG Tel: 08702 430160           National Museum of Scotland We visited the Museum of Scotland twice. There was so much to see that we simply ran out of time on our first visit. Our second visit was highlighted with a magnificent view from the roof top terrace that over looks Edinburgh. Admission to the Museum is free. They have a very diverse collection of historic items from Scotland covering its extensive history. We did notice that the layout of the museum was a little confusing and that the hand held audio guide was limited. However, we both felt it was a remarkable place to visit and wished we would have had more time to do it justice. Museum of Scotland (Click Picture to Enlarge) National Museum of Scotland Chambers Street Edinburgh, EH1 1JF Tel: 0131 247 4422        St Giles` Cathedral Thistle Chapel St. Giles` Cathedral, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) There is record of the establishment of a parish church in Edinburgh by the year 854, served by a vicar from a monastic house, probably in England. The parish church of Edinburgh was subsequently reconsecrated and named in honor of the patron saint of the town, St Giles, whose feast day is celebrated on 1st of September. With roots in the Middle Ages, the Order of the Thistle is Scotland's great order of chivalry, and membership is considered to be one of the country's highest honors. The Order is traditionally given to Scots or people of Scottish ancestry, who have given distinguished service. Appointments are entirely the personal gift of the Sovereign. The Thistle Chapel (below, right) was finished in 1911. It contains stalls for the 16 knights, the Sovereign’s stall, and two Royal stalls. Entrance is through a low-vaulted vestibule or ante-chapel at the east end of the Preston aisle. The chapel is a rectangle of three bays, with a polygonal eastern apse and a stone vault encrusted with a rich pattern of ribs and carved bosses. Along the sides of the chapel are the knights’ stalls, which are capped by lavishly carved canopies with the helms and crests of the knights rising above. The richest effect of all, however, is reserved for the Sovereign’s stall at the west end of the chapel. Thistle Chapel St. Giles` Cathedral, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) Interior Stain Glass St. Giles` Cathedral, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) Through Parliment Square St. Giles` Cathedral, Edinburgh (Click Picture to Enlarge) St Giles` Cathedral Royal Mile (High Street) Edinburgh, EH1 1RE Tel: +44 (0)131 225 9442 FAX: +44 (0)131 225 9576

Back side of High Street (The Royal Mile) from Princes Park Panorama of Edinburgh from Princes Park (Click to Enlarge) Installation of the Governor of Edinburgh Castle Program Cover Installation of Governor, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) Ceremony Details Installation of Governor, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) Entry of the Guards Installation of Governor, Edinburgh What an opportunity! We weren't lucky enough to be in Edinburgh when the Tatto Festival occurs, but we were there for a ceremony that rarely happens. The Ceremony of the Installation of Her Majesty's Governor of Edinburgh Castle. It was fascinating to witness this very traditional ceremony. Since Edinburgh Castle is a military installation, the Queen appointments the Commander of the Second Division (General Officer Commanding the Army in Scotland) as Governor of the Castle. This has occurred only 126 times over the last 830 years! The installation was really interesting. It began with the arrival of the Band of the Royal Regiment of Scotland. They treated us with several pieces that included bagpipes. Next the F Company Scots Guards marched onto the parade ground and lined up for inspection. Next to arrive were the State Trumpeters, Her Majesty's Officers of Arms and the Lord Lyon King of Arms. The video on the lower right shows the guards coming into the parade ground. They were followed by the Governor, Major General D McDowall MBE, with his piper, escorted by the representative of the Scottish Regiments and a pupil of Queen Victoria School, Dumblane. Request for the Key Installation of Governor, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) Retrieving the Key Installation of Governor, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) The Governor requested for The Lord Lyon to read out loud the Commission of Her Majesty The Queen, appointing him governor of Edinburgh Castle. The Lord Lyon read out loud the Commission to those assembled. The Governor then ordered the Castle Gates opened and for the key of the Castle to be brought to him. The Lord Lyon and one Pursuivant approached the Castle. The garrison was alerted and the sentries challenged Lord Lyon. The Garrison Commander then demanded proof of the summons, whereupon the Pursuivant advanced to the Castle and knocked 3 times on the Wicket Gate (no kidding!). When the Gate opened a "just double" of the summons was presented which carried a demand in the name of Her Majesty that the Gate be opened and the key brought to the new Governor. Once the summons was verified and the sentries stood down, The Lord Lyon and Pursuivant rejoined the Parade. The Key was then carried out by the Keeper and presented to the Governor. The Governor instructed the Parade Commander to deliver the Key for safe custody to the Garrison Commander. The Lord Lyon and Her Majesty's Officers of Arms then escorted the Governor, accompanied by his Escort and Personal Staff. As the Governor reaches the drawbridge a fanfare was sounded, and the Governor's banner was raised above the Castle guardhouse.     Greyfriars Bobby Immediately across from the Museum of Scotland is the Greyfriar Bobby's Bar. In front of the building is the status of a Skye Terrier, known by so many as Greyfriars Bobby. The story goes that the dog remained loyal to his master even after his death. From his master's death to his own, 14 years later, the little dog is said to have stood guard over his master's grave. Upon his death, Bobby was buried in front of the tavern where he often was fed because he was not allowed to be buried in the graveyard with his master. Also see What We Learned about Greyfriars Bobby's story. Statue of Greyfriars Bobby Greyfriars Bobby Bar, Edinburgh (Click Picture to Enlarge) 30-34 Candlemaker Row Edinburgh, EH1 2QE, UK Tel: 0131 225 8328           Edinburgh Castle Edinburgh Castle has much to explore and discover. You can visit St. Margaret’s Chapel, which is Edinburgh’s oldest building and dates back to the 1100s. Crown Square was the principal courtyard developed in the 15th century. Also see the Great Hall, built by James IV, and admire its impressive hammer beam roof, and the Scottish National War Memorial, added after World War I. We started with an introduction by our tour guide before we entered the Castle. Devina did a great job of explaining why the Castle was needed, why it was built where it is and why it is still in use. For more information on the history of the castle Introduction at Castle Hill Edinburgh Castle (Click to Enlarge) Great Hall Edinburgh Castle (Click to Enlarge) Scotish Soldier - Historic Character Interpreter Edinburgh Castle (Click to Enlarge) Interior...St Margaret`s Chaple Edinburgh Castle (Click to Enlarge) At the front gate (just across the `drawbridge'...a stone bridge today) we are met by Robert the Bruce (on the left) and William Wallace (on the right). Although Wallace (Brave Heart) was executed by the English, he is a hero to the Scots! Inside the gate you have the Crown Square and a number of building. Prominent is the residence of the Governor of the Castle. Nearby are St. Margaret`s Chapel and the Great Hall. In the Great Hall we were greeted by a Castle Guard who interpreted the story of life in the great hall. We learned that much of the time there were three levels which housed 500 hundred (guards and their families). Open fires, no refrigerator or bathrooms (in fact the urine was used to "clean" their shirts. The good old days were simply not that good. The interpreter (with his bear skin/fir hat) did an outstanding job! In the court yard you have a terrific view of Edinburgh. While it was raining when we were there, you could still appreciate the strategic significance of the castle being on the top of the old volcano. Not to mention the fact that rock foundation prevented anyone from digging under the outer walls. St Margaret`s Chapel was interesting, but surprisingly small (holds about 20 people). Available for small intimate wedding ceremonies, this beautifully preserved 12th century chapel is the oldest building in the castle and indeed in Edinburgh. King David I built it as a private chapel for the royal family and dedicated it to his mother, Margaret, who died in the castle in 1093. Front Gate Edinburgh Castle (Click Picture to Enlarge) Edinburgh Castle Castle Hill Edinburgh, EH1 2NG Tel: 0131 225 9846        Street Life Not a street performer you`d expect to see...anywhere! The Filling Station American-style bar and restaurant on the High Street, very popular with tourists. The main bar is on a raised platform to the front of the room overlooking High Street. To the rear is the restaurant which is decked out in typical American license plates and other related memorabilia. The menu is mainly pizzas, burgers etc, with some local choices as well. While we enjoyed the food and the price was not out of line with other places in Edinburgh, the restaurant is just a little too American, i.e., what we have at home not a place for Scottish fare. We'd recommend it, but only if you're looking for a touch of home. The Filling Station Royal Mile, Edinburgh (Click Picture to Enlarge) The Filling Station 235 High Street Edinburgh, EH1 1PE Tel: +44 0131-226 2488 FAX: +44 0131-226 3528     Deacon Brody Restaurant I know what it means...but that`s not what it says Deacon Brodie Restaurant, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) We ate upstairs and had a great meal. Jack actually had Haggis while the rest of us went a little more conservative. The food was good, service was great, the prices were reasonable (as they can be) and the atmosphere felt real Scottish. There's one other interesting sign at the restaurant (right). Isn't it amazing how we say the same things differently? Also check out Deacon Brodie under What We Learned Across the Street Deacon Brodie Restaurant, Edinburgh (Click Picture to Enlarge) Deacon Brody Restaurant 435 Lawnmarket The Royal Mile Edinburgh, EH1 2NT Tel: 0131 225 6531     Lucky Star Restaurant A Chinese take-away? Ok...here's the story. We returned to our B&B at about 9:00PM and THEN decided to look for a place to eat. Here's a warning. There isn't any place open at that time of night near the B&Bs, except the Lucky Star. We tried a number of places and they were either closed or closing, i.e., the kitchen was shut down. But not the Lucky Star. While it's a take-away, they also offer some seating. Now it's not exactly Scottish fare, we enjoyed everything we ordered. I wouldn't exactly recommend that you head there instead of one of the many places that are open until 9:00, but if you get yourself into a time crunch, it's a great alternative! Lucky Star Restaurant (Click Picture to Enlarge) Lucky Star Restaurant 6-8 Salisbury Place Edinburgh, EH9 1SH Tel: 0131 668 2003 FAX: 0131 667 8979     Howies Restaurant Dinner on the first day of our tour was our time for introductions. After filling our glasses with wine each of introduced ourselves and feverishly took notes about everyone else in the group. Since we were in a group we had a choice of sea bass and two other choices that we can't remember. The food was great. The wine was great. The tour group was great (we didn't know that until we had a chance to get to know everyone else). Not sure on the pricing, but we'd recommend it on the basis of service and the sea bass. From Across the street Howies Restaurant, Edinburgh (Click Picture to Enlarge) Howies Restaurant, Victoria Street 10-14 Victoria Street Edinburgh, EH1 Tel: 0131 225 1721           Novotel Hotel We eat breakfast both mornings at the Novotel. The food was plentiful and the service was great. We had both cold selections (fruit and yogurt) as well as hot food such as eggs and sausage. While nothing fancy, it a good addition to a nice hotel. Restaurant Novotel Hotel, Edinburgh (Click Picture to Enlarge) Novotel Hotel 80 Lauriston Place Edinburgh, EH3 9DE Tel: (+44)131/6563500 FAX: (+44)131/6563510           The Jolly Judge Jack, Jan & Linda having lunch The Jolly Judge, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) Overhead decoration The Jolly Judge, Edinburgh (Click to Enlarge) A good restaurant! We all had a great lunch in the atmosphere of a true Scottish pub. The food was reasonably priced and the young lady that waited on us was very friendly. Turned out that she was actually an American student from Kalamazoo who attended college in Chicago...go figure. Anyway you can see from the pictures (be sure to click below for more pictures) that the place is large, but very cozy, friendly and a lot of fun. Oh...they just announced FREE WI-FI Internet. Highly Recommended! Downstairs Entrance The Jolly Judge, Edinburgh (Click Picture to Enlarge) The Jolly Judge 7 James Court Lawnmarket Edinburgh, EH1 2PB Tel: 44 (0) 131 225 2669              Royal Mile Tavern We ate our last dinner at the Royal Mile Tavern. We were looking for a place that had a Sunday roast. Although it was on the menu, they no longer served it. Jack was really disappointed! While the food was good and the atmosphere was quaint, we'd only give the restaurant a so-so rating. Jack, Jan and Linda out front Royal Mile Tavern, Edinburgh (Click Picture to Enlarge) Royal Mile Tavern 127 High Street Edinburgh, EH1 1SG Tel: +44 131 557 9681           Dunedin Guest House In the heart of the B&B section of Edinburgh, Dunedin Guest House is a great place to stay. The room was VERY comfortable and "homey", the owners were VERY friendly, bathrooms were in the rooms and the breakfast included is both cold and hot (made to order) choices. Bus service to the town center is located a SHORT distance down the road and only cost ₤1 per person. All this and the room cost 1/2 the hotel rate. Found in Rick Steves` guide. Highly recommended! Linda out front Dunedin Guest House, Edinburgh (Click Picture to Enlarge) Dunedin Guest House 8 Priestfield Road Newington Edinburgh, EH15 5HH Tel: +44 (0) 131 668 1949 FAX: +44 (0)131 668 3636              Novotel Hotel Our tour started at the Novotel hotel. Located a short distance from the Royal Mile, you have easy access to the Edinburgh Castle, the Museum of Scotland, a lot of places to eat on the mile and you don't have to put up with the traffic and congestion of the hotels closer to the Mile or Princes Street. There's even a swimming pool on the lower level. The rooms were large by European standards...very much what you'd find in the average hotel in the US. There was a good restaurant on the main floor with a great breakfast included in the rate. Cost? no sure, it was covered by the tour. Novotel gets a good recommendation...if you're opposed to B&Bs, Novotel Hotel Novotel Hotel, Edinburgh (Click Picture to Enlarge) Novotel Hotel 80 Lauriston Place Edinburgh, EH3 9DE Tel: (+44)131/6563500 FAX: (+44)131/6563510